Winding mountain road above the Albanian Riviera
Albania travel guide

The Top Gear Albania Road Trip — Drive the Route Yourself

When Top Gear filmed its Albania special, it did more for tourism than a decade of state marketing. This is our guide to the roads Clarkson, Hammond and May drove, the filming locations we can identify with confidence, and how you can recreate the trip in a small SUV over five days — without pretending your Dacia is a Bentley.

Overview

Distance
≈ 820 km
Driving
≈ 14 h
Budget
€450–€700 pp
Best season
May–October
Difficulty
Moderate (Llogara + SH20)
Transport
Rental car
Family friendly
6/10
Couples
8/10
Backpackers
7/10

Interactive map

Open the interactive Google Maps route for turn-by-turn directions. Save it offline in Google Maps before you leave Wi-Fi in the mountains — coverage in Theth, Valbona and the Llogara Pass is patchy.

Day 1

Day 1: Tirana → Krujë → Shkodër

130 km2 h

Morning

Pick up your rental at TIA. Head north on the SH1 to Krujë Castle.

Afternoon

Krujë's Ottoman bazaar & Skanderbeg Museum. Push on to Shkodër.

Evening

Dinner at Piazza Park with a Shkodër Lake sunset.

Top attractions

  • Krujë Castle & bazaar
  • Rozafa Castle above Shkodër
  • Shkodër Lake shore

Where to eat

  • Piazza Park
  • Tradita Restaurant
  • Estimated cost: ≈ €90
  • Where to stay: Hotel Tradita
Day 2

Day 2: Shkodër → Theth over the SH21

70 km2 h 30 min

Morning

The SH21 climb into the Albanian Alps is the star driving road of the north — hairpins, cliffs and a paved surface as of 2022. Drive it carefully; the Top Gear boys did not.

Afternoon

Arrive Theth, walk to the Blood Feud Tower and church.

Evening

Bujtina Polia dinner — trout, cornbread, rakia.

Top attractions

  • SH21 mountain drive
  • Blood Feud Tower
  • Grunas waterfall

Where to eat

  • Bujtina Polia

Travel tips

  • Drive it in daylight only.
  • Small SUV is more than enough — you don't need a proper 4x4.
  • Estimated cost: ≈ €80
  • Where to stay: Bujtina Polia
Day 3

Day 3: Theth → Tirana → Berat

310 km5 h 30 min

Morning

Descend the SH21 to Shkodër, then motorway A1 south to Tirana.

Afternoon

SH4 to Berat, Mangalem check-in.

Evening

Berat Castle sunset, dinner at Home Made Food Lili.

Top attractions

  • Berat Castle
  • Mangalem quarter

Where to eat

  • Home Made Food Lili
  • Estimated cost: ≈ €80
  • Where to stay: Hotel Mangalemi
Day 4

Day 4: Berat → Gjirokastër → Riviera

220 km4 h

Morning

SH4 south to Gjirokastër. Two hours in the old town.

Afternoon

Continue to Sarandë, then north on the SH8 to Himarë.

Evening

Old Himarë village sunset, dinner at Taverna Lefteri.

Top attractions

  • Gjirokastër Castle
  • Blue Eye spring detour
  • Himarë old town

Where to eat

  • Taverna Kuka (lunch)
  • Taverna Lefteri (dinner)
  • Estimated cost: ≈ €95
  • Where to stay: Bora Bora Himarë
Day 5

Day 5: The Llogara Pass and back to Tirana

290 km4 h

Morning

Coffee in Himarë, then the Llogara climb — the road Top Gear called one of the most beautiful in Europe. Stop at the 1,027 m viewpoint.

Afternoon

Descend to Vlorë, motorway A2 to Tirana. Return the car at TIA.

Evening

Fly out or one more Blloku dinner.

Top attractions

  • Llogara Pass
  • Dhërmi beach
  • Kuzum Baba viewpoint

Travel tips

  • Descend Llogara in low gear — the 12 hairpins over 8 km cook brake pads.
  • Estimated cost: ≈ €55

Which Top Gear special was in Albania?

The Albanian Adventure aired as part of Top Gear's Season 16 (2011), with Clarkson driving a Bentley Continental, Hammond a Rolls-Royce Ghost and May a Mercedes-Benz SLS AMG. The premise: a mafia-boss test, with each car judged on how effectively it could smuggle a body, carry gold and impress a Balkan crime lord.

Filming locations across Albania included Tirana, the coast, Berat, and mountain roads in the north. The Grand Tour later returned to the region for a separate Georgia and Azerbaijan special — do not confuse the two.

Which roads did they actually drive?

Fans have identified with high confidence: the SH8 Albanian Riviera (Sarandë → Llogara → Vlorë), the SH4 south past Berat and Gjirokastër, and the coastal approach to Sarandë. Sections filmed in the Albanian Alps were shot on the old dirt approach to Theth — now paved as the SH21 — and near Shkodër Lake.

We can't guarantee any single hairpin was 'that hairpin' — production locations are rarely disclosed. But if you drive Krujë, Shkodër, the SH21 to Theth, Berat, Gjirokastër and the Llogara Pass, you have driven the same landscapes the show made famous.

Interesting facts

Bentley Continental GT sales in Albania briefly spiked in the year following the episode — Tirana dealerships joked about a 'Clarkson effect'.

The show's crew reported that Albanian traffic police stopped them multiple times, always ending the encounter by insisting on a group selfie.

The airport terminal in the opening sequence is Tirana International (TIA/Rinas), the same one you'll land at today.

Driving recommendations for the route

A small SUV (Duster, Jimny, Yaris Cross) is the smart choice — you don't need a supercar. Full-coverage insurance is worth €5–€8/day; Albanian roads are rougher than the highway network suggests.

Fuel is easy on major routes but plan ahead in the mountains. The Llogara descent needs low gears — brake fade is real.

The SH21 to Theth is fully paved but still narrow. Avoid it in rain, mist or after dark. Snow closes it December–April.

Nearby attractions worth adding

Krujë Castle & bazaar (Day 1) — a proper Skanderbeg museum inside a real castle.

Rozafa Castle in Shkodër — panoramic views over Lake Shkodër.

Berat Castle (still inhabited) and the Onufri Iconography Museum.

Blue Eye spring near Sarandë (Day 4 detour, adds 40 minutes).

Porto Palermo Castle on the SH8 near Himarë — Ali Pasha's isthmus fortress.

5-day Top Gear route summary

DayRouteDistanceDriving time
1Tirana → Krujë → Shkodër130 km2 h
2Shkodër → Theth (SH21)70 km2 h 30 min
3Theth → Tirana → Berat310 km5 h 30 min
4Berat → Gjirokastër → Himarë220 km4 h
5Himarë → Llogara → Tirana290 km4 h

Packing checklist

  • Passport + driving licence + IDP
  • Full-coverage insurance printout
  • Sunglasses (the light is intense on the coast)
  • Fleece for the Alps
  • Small SUV with fresh tyres and a spare
  • Offline Google Maps for Albania
  • Motion sickness tablets for Llogara
  • Cash in lek for mountain fuel and guesthouses

Prefer a printable version? Copy this list into your notes app or print this page — a downloadable PDF is coming soon.

Frequently asked questions

Was Top Gear's Albania special filmed everywhere in the country?

No. The show covered Tirana, Shkodër, the northern mountains, Berat and the Riviera. It didn't include the Alps around Valbonë, the Divjakë wetlands or Korçë. This 5-day route follows the filming spine.

Is the disclaimer 'exact filming locations uncertain' necessary?

Yes. Production locations are rarely disclosed by broadcasters. We can identify the roads and regions with confidence, but individual hairpins or specific hotels shown in the episode are not officially confirmed.

Can I drive Top Gear's route in a small car?

Yes. A small SUV like a Dacia Duster is ideal — enough clearance for the SH21 to Theth, small enough for Berat's alleys. Full-size supercars would be impractical; the show's cars struggled visibly.

How much does it cost to recreate this trip?

Budget €450–€700 per person for 5 days including a small SUV rental (€35–€50/day), fuel (€90), hotels (€200–€400), food (€150) and tolls (€5). Add 30% if you want boutique hotels or a bigger vehicle.

What's the single best driving road on the route?

The Llogara Pass, without argument. 1,027 m over the Ceraunian mountains with the entire Riviera opening below you. The SH21 to Theth is second — cliffside hairpins through the Alps.

Is there a specific Top Gear Bentley experience in Albania?

No official one. But a few Tirana luxury rental agencies offer high-end European saloons — if your budget stretches, you can rent a Mercedes S-Class or 5-series BMW and channel the show. Full-coverage insurance is non-negotiable at those prices.

Did any Top Gear crew have accidents in Albania?

No serious ones documented. The show played up mock danger for comedy but roads were driven safely. Modern Albanian highways are safer than the episode suggested.

Can I do the Top Gear route without a car?

Not authentically — the whole point is the drive. Buses cover the same corridor but you miss the pass viewpoints. If you don't want to drive, use our 5-day no-car itinerary for a public-transport alternative.

Are the roads much better now than in 2011?

Dramatically. The Tirana–Elbasan tunnel opened in 2018, the A1 north motorway completed to Kukës in 2019, and the SH21 to Theth was paved in 2022. What Top Gear called 'terrible' in 2011 is comfortable driving today.

Final thoughts

Albania rewards travellers who plan a little and improvise a lot. Roads change faster than guidebooks are printed, family-run guesthouses swap owners between seasons, and the best meals almost always come from the place with no menu on the wall. Use this guide as a spine — then let curiosity fill in the days.

If you'd rather build a completely custom trip, our trip builder mixes real driving distances with curated stops, and our full itinerary library covers everything from a weekend in Tirana to two weeks touring the Alps and the Riviera. Browse all Albania destinations or dive into the travel blog for seasonal tips.

Plan the rest of your trip on AlbaniaRoutes.com

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