Albania Itinerary: 10 Days from the Alps to the Riviera
Ten days is where Albania stops being a highlight reel and starts becoming a proper country trip. You get the Alps, Lake Koman's fjord-like ferry, two UNESCO Ottoman towns and a Riviera week — with time to stop, swim and eat properly along the way. This is the itinerary we send to travellers who want to see the whole country on one visit.
Overview
Interactive map
Open the interactive Google Maps route for turn-by-turn directions. Save it offline in Google Maps before you leave Wi-Fi in the mountains — coverage in Theth, Valbona and the Llogara Pass is patchy.
Day 1: Arrival in Tirana
Morning
Land at TIA, pick up rental, hotel check-in.
Afternoon
Walk Skanderbeg Square, National History Museum, Bunk'Art 2.
Evening
Dinner at Mullixhiu in Blloku.
Top attractions
- Skanderbeg Square
- Bunk'Art 2
- Blloku district
Where to eat
- Mullixhiu
- Oda
Coffee stops
- Komiteti
Travel tips
- Withdraw 15,000 lek for mountain villages later.
- Estimated cost: ≈ €90
- Where to stay: Rogner or Sky Tower area
Day 2: Tirana → Shkodër
Morning
Drive north via the SH1. Stop in Krujë Castle & Ottoman bazaar for 90 minutes.
Afternoon
Arrive Shkodër, ride a bike around Rozafa Castle and Shkodër Lake shore.
Evening
Dinner at Piazza Park with a lake sunset.
Top attractions
- Rozafa Castle
- Marubi National Photography Museum
- Shkodër Lake
Where to eat
- Piazza Park
- Tradita Restaurant
- Estimated cost: ≈ €70
- Where to stay: Hotel Tradita or Wanderers Hostel
Day 3: Lake Koman ferry → Valbonë
Morning
Pre-dawn drive to Koman (1 h 30 min from Shkodër). Board the 09:00 Berisha ferry through Albania's mini-fjord.
Afternoon
Arrive Fierza at 12:00, transfer to Valbonë (1 h). Check into a guesthouse.
Evening
Slow dinner of homemade fli and cornbread. Star spot from your balcony.
Top attractions
- Lake Koman ferry (Europe's most scenic ferry ride)
- Valbonë river valley
- Valbonë National Park visitor centre
Where to eat
- Rezidenca Alpin
- Hotel Rilindja
Travel tips
- Book the ferry 3 days ahead in July–August. Cars fit but small SUVs are the max.
- Vehicles cost extra ≈ €25 one-way.
- Estimated cost: ≈ €65
- Where to stay: Rilindja Guesthouse
Day 4: Valbonë → Theth hike (or transfer)
Morning
Two options: (a) the classic Valbonë–Theth mountain hike (17 km, 6–7 h, 900 m ascent) — luggage can be shuttled by 4x4 for €30/bag, or (b) drive around via Bajram Curri and the new Theth road (2 h 30 min).
Afternoon
Arrive Theth by mid-afternoon. Visit the Blood Feud Tower (Kulla e Ngujimit) and the Ethnographic Museum.
Evening
Dinner at Bujtina Polia — cornbread, local trout, homemade wine.
Top attractions
- Valbonë–Theth mountain pass
- Blood Feud Tower
- Theth church
Where to eat
- Bujtina Polia
- Guesthouse Terthorja
Travel tips
- Wear real hiking boots — the trail has scree and a steep descent.
- Start hiking by 07:00 to beat the heat.
- Estimated cost: ≈ €70
- Where to stay: Bujtina Polia
Day 5: Blue Eye of Theth & Grunas waterfall
Morning
Hike to the Blue Eye of Theth via Nderlysaj (7 km each way, or hire a 4x4 for the first 4 km for €10/person). Swim in the pool — bring water shoes.
Afternoon
Return to Theth, walk to Grunas waterfall (30 min from the church).
Evening
Second night at your guesthouse — the mountains deserve a rest day.
Top attractions
- Blue Eye of Theth
- Grunas waterfall
- Lock-in tower
Where to eat
- Same guesthouse
Hidden gems
- The upper path above Grunas has zero tourists and the best view of Theth valley.
Travel tips
- Water bottle — refill at any spring; it's the best water in Albania.
- Estimated cost: ≈ €50
- Where to stay: Bujtina Polia
Day 6: Theth → Tirana → Berat
Morning
Descend Theth via the (now paved) SH21 to Shkodër (2 h). This road was appalling until 2022; today a normal car handles it.
Afternoon
Motorway A1 to Tirana, then SH4 to Berat (3 h combined). Check in.
Evening
Sunset from Berat Castle, dinner at Home Made Food Lili.
Top attractions
- Berat Castle
- Mangalem quarter
Where to eat
- Home Made Food Lili
- Estimated cost: ≈ €75
- Where to stay: Hotel Mangalemi
Day 7: Berat → Gjirokastër
Morning
Late breakfast, then SH4 south. Optional 40-min detour to Bogovë waterfall.
Afternoon
Arrive Gjirokastër, castle, Cold War tunnel, one Ottoman house.
Evening
Dinner at Taverna Kuka.
Top attractions
- Gjirokastër Castle
- Skenduli House
- Cold War Tunnel
Where to eat
- Taverna Kuka
- Estimated cost: ≈ €75
- Where to stay: Kotoni B&B
Day 8: Blue Eye, Butrint & Ksamil
Morning
Blue Eye before 09:30. Then Butrint UNESCO park (2.5 h).
Afternoon
Lunch on Butrint lagoon, transfer to Ksamil, beach afternoon.
Evening
Seafood at Guvat, sunset over the four islands.
Top attractions
- Blue Eye spring
- Butrint UNESCO park
- Ksamil islands
Where to eat
- Guvat
- Poda
- Estimated cost: ≈ €95
- Where to stay: Ksamil Village Resort
Day 9: Riviera crawl → Himarë
Morning
Slow drive north on SH8. Stop at Porto Palermo Castle.
Afternoon
Beach at Gjipe (30-min hike) or Filikuri (boat from Himarë).
Evening
Dinner in Himarë old town.
Top attractions
- Porto Palermo Castle
- Gjipe beach
- Himarë old town
Where to eat
- Taverna Lefteri
- Estimated cost: ≈ €85
- Where to stay: Bora Bora Himarë
Day 10: Llogara Pass → Tirana → fly out
Morning
Coffee in Himarë, climb the Llogara Pass with the mandatory viewpoint stop.
Afternoon
Motorway A2 to Tirana. Two hours of city time and airport drop.
Evening
Return the car at TIA and fly out.
Top attractions
- Llogara Pass
- Dhërmi beach
- Skanderbeg Square
- Estimated cost: ≈ €60
Why the Alps come before the coast
Order matters. Driving north to the Alps first while you're fresh, then coasting south down the Riviera, gives you the toughest logistics (Koman ferry, Theth hike) at peak energy and the easiest days at the end. Doing it in reverse means finishing on a 6-hour drive from Theth to the airport, which nobody enjoys.
When to skip Theth (and how)
Theth is spectacular but not for everyone. Skip it if you dislike hiking, travel with kids under 6, or visit outside the mid-May to early October window when the road is safe. If you skip, replace Days 3–6 with two extra Riviera days and one day at Lake Ohrid in Pogradec.
10-day driving summary
| Day | Route | Distance | Driving |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Airport → Tirana | 17 km | 25 min |
| 2 | Tirana → Shkodër | 100 km | 1 h 45 min |
| 3 | Shkodër → Koman → Valbonë | 160 km + ferry | 5 h |
| 4 | Valbonë → Theth (hike or drive) | 17 or 60 km | 6 h hike / 2 h 30 drive |
| 5 | Around Theth | walking | — |
| 6 | Theth → Berat | 300 km | 5 h |
| 7 | Berat → Gjirokastër | 170 km | 3 h 15 min |
| 8 | Gjirokastër → Ksamil | 80 km | 1 h 30 min |
| 9 | Ksamil → Himarë | 90 km | 2 h |
| 10 | Himarë → Tirana | 270 km | 4 h |
10-day budget per person
| Style | Total |
|---|---|
| Backpacker | €520–€680 |
| Mid-range | €780–€1,400 |
| Comfort | €1,800+ |
Packing checklist
- Hiking boots with real ankle support (Valbonë–Theth is not for trainers)
- Fleece or midlayer for Alps evenings
- Sun hat & SPF 50 for the coast
- Water shoes for the Blue Eye of Theth
- Snorkel & mask for Ksamil
- Dry bag for the Koman ferry deck
- Universal adapter (Type C/F)
- Motion-sickness tablets for Llogara
- Small cash reserve in lek for mountain guesthouses
Prefer a printable version? Copy this list into your notes app or print this page — a downloadable PDF is coming soon.
Frequently asked questions
Is 10 days enough to see all of Albania?
It's enough for a strong first visit: Alps, Koman ferry, two UNESCO towns, Riviera and Tirana. You'll still miss Korçë, Lake Ohrid, Divjakë and Cape of Rodon — but those are perfect returns for a future trip.
Can I do 10 days in Albania without a car?
Yes, but with different logistics. Use furgons Tirana → Shkodër → Valbonë, hike or 4x4 shuttle to Theth, and buses down the coast. Add 2 days to the itinerary to absorb transfer delays. Our '10 days in Albania without a car' guide has the exact schedule.
How hard is the Valbonë–Theth hike?
6–7 hours, 17 km, 900 m ascent and 800 m descent on a marked but rocky trail. Anyone in decent shape can do it in dry weather with proper boots. Trail runners have finished in 4 h; unfit walkers take 9 h. Do not attempt in rain or snow.
Is Theth accessible by car in 2026?
Yes. The SH21 from Shkodër is fully paved as of 2022 and passable in any car. Snow closes it from December to April; check conditions at your guesthouse before descending in October or November.
How much does the Koman ferry cost?
€8–€10 for foot passengers, ≈ €25 for a small car, ≈ €35 for a small SUV. Book 3 days ahead in July–August; walk-ons are usually fine in May and September. The Berisha ferry is more comfortable than the smaller Alpin.
What's the ideal starting month?
Late May for green Alps and warm coast; late September for warm sea (26 °C) and empty beaches. July and August work but Ksamil hotels double in price. Avoid November–April: Theth is closed and the Riviera hibernates.
Do I need travel insurance?
Strongly recommended. Albania has decent private clinics in Tirana but limited emergency services in the mountains. A basic World Nomads or SafetyWing policy covers the Alps hike, driving and evacuation from Theth or Valbonë.
Are there ATMs in Theth and Valbonë?
Theth has one unreliable ATM at the visitor centre; Valbonë has none. Bring enough cash in lek for 3 nights — guesthouses charge €30–€45/night in cash, and no cards work in remote restaurants.
Can I extend to 14 days easily?
Yes. Add Korçë and Lake Ohrid (Pogradec) between Days 6 and 7, and one extra Riviera night in Dhërmi or Palasë. Our 14-day Albania grand tour has the full plan.
Which agencies rent 4x4s for the Alps?
For the paved SH21 to Theth you don't need a 4x4. If you plan to drive to remote mountain villages, Enterprise-Albania and Tomori Car Rental have Duster and Jimny fleets from €55–€75/day. Confirm the car has fresh tyres.
Final thoughts
Albania rewards travellers who plan a little and improvise a lot. Roads change faster than guidebooks are printed, family-run guesthouses swap owners between seasons, and the best meals almost always come from the place with no menu on the wall. Use this guide as a spine — then let curiosity fill in the days.
If you'd rather build a completely custom trip, our trip builder mixes real driving distances with curated stops, and our full itinerary library covers everything from a weekend in Tirana to two weeks touring the Alps and the Riviera. Browse all Albania destinations or dive into the travel blog for seasonal tips.
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